It has been 3 days since I started having Pakistani food and I decided I have somewhat already gained an immunity for the local water so I can start eating a bit of uncooked vegetables which I was craving so much for. Pakistani cuisine is usually very greasy even in the breakfast. It is always nice to balance it out by eating something light together. Though every time I was served with some salad, I had to hesitate because usually vegetables are washed with tab water. This morning, I ate a bit of cucumbers and tomatoes and they were really good. I should start little by little though.
The hotel owner, Mrs. Tokunaga kindly took me to a Sunday market called ItwarBazaar. She likes this market because it is very local, it has a wide variety, and there are many women visitors. Even in the capital city, we have to be careful when we go to a crowded area, so we went there when it has just opened with a company of a driver and a body guard. This was my very first going out ever since I arrived in Islamabad, so everything I saw from the car window was inspiring. Everyone in the street were wearing same clothes and just sitting and hanging out around old shucks and tiny shops. The view was nothing like I had ever seen. It was a very strange site to me.
ItwarBazaar lined up in a big property and contained various things; second hand clothes, new clothes, textiles, carpets, shoes, fruits, and vegetables. They were lined by categories and making about seven long lines. There were not many people yet, but the products were all making a beautiful color gradations. The Bazaar is run by government and it was severely damaged by the flood over this summer. Mrs. Tokunaga said that it was very hard to get vegetables for about a month after the flood and the price went really high, it affected so many people in the area. It was hard to imagine from looking at this lively view in front of me.
Mrs. Tokunaga wanted to see some second hand clothes, so I went along looking around those clothes, stockings, stuffed animals and even some under wears. There were also various kinds of Pakistani dresses which I wanted to buy for when I visit the northern Pakistan. I wanted to dress like everyone else so I won't stand out. I so very much wanted to get those beautiful color ones, but of course, that will not satisfy my purpose, so I ignored them and bought very very low tone colored ones like those that elderly would wear. I bought 4 sets of them for 800 rupees (about $10). I convinced myself that I will come back to the bazaar when I was going back to Japan and buy those beautiful ones. I also purchased 2 Pakistani made textiles.
When we went deep into the bazaar, there were fruits playing in sunshine. Most of the fruits I have seen in markets in Japan such as apples, oranges, pears, grapes and persimmons. There were also my favorite guavas and huge pomegranates. I ate them later and they were soooo sweet! In the vegetable section, tomatoes were glowing red and when they were lying next to lemons and celentros, they just looked glorious. Mrs. Tokunaga was buying many kind of vegetables just like the way any locals were and she was looking so cool. I should learn that knowhow some time during my stay. She told me that the bitter melons make really good curry. I want to try it in the future.
As expected, by the time we were done, there were many people coming into the market. We were just on time. She is just great! We stopped by a super market to buy some more and returned back to the hotel. It was only some 2 hours event, but it was a super fun shopping! Itwar Bazaar, highly recommended! Thanks to you Mrs. Tokunaga!
I had a real good sleep last night. I opened the curtain and found a beautiful view like a postcard. My favorite flower, bougainvilleae (maginuuneh!) was expressing its redness and passion. And there is an old building with a big balcony with an old crib. I was wondering who would be lying there.
Today is Saturday and I am excited to chat with my loved ones on skype! I thank whoever that invented skype and I am sure I will be thanking it even more as the time progresses.
I went to the dining room down stairs for breakfast hoping to talk with other guests and ask about how is the stay in this city. When I entered the room, I found only one set of plates on a table. I then found out that I was the only guest last night. The staff told me that there will be some guests tomorrow. I had a quiet breakfast. I chose Pakistani breakfast out of other options like Japanese and American. I wanted to try the local food and at the same time, I wanted to leave the Japanese option until the day I start missing Japanese food. The breakfast was garbanzo beans with curry flovors with a piece of bread. The portion was quite small, but the taste and the heaviness of the beans made me full and satisfied. The photo above is curry potato I ordered for lunch. This portion was really big (350 rupees-about $4). mmmm Tasty! I think I can live in this country!
After the breakfast, I had a chance to talk with the hotel owner, obahan. She has been living in Pakistan for more than 30 years. She is an expert of Pakistan, especially how to live in Pakistan as a foreigner. She once came here 30 some years ago to climb mountains and fell in love with the country right away she said. " Everything went wrong here and I wanted to do the way I wanted to". By the time she got things right, she was attached to this place and shifted her life to Pakistan. She is full of vitality and energy. She runs her own NGO and some other companies. She said that the most wrong thing to do is to judge Pakistani people and culture through the eyes and the value of foreign cultures and value. It hurts her to hear negative comments and one sided news about Pakistan she said. I can totally understand that point. She told me if I want to pursue the project acitivity smoothly in Kohistan, she would recommend me to wear burka. I assumed also that that would be better for me. I am lucky again she is going to take me to the market tomorrow morning .
When I returned to my room, I turned on TV. Almost every channel had news on in Urdu. I thought it may help me getting used to the sound, so I kept it on. News casters are almost yelling and reporting about some crowdedness I am not sure what they are all about. I could tell only about Obama visiting Mumbai. The prologue music for the news sounded so dramatic it made me wonder what happened each time. It also kind of reminded me of news I used to watch back in Palestine.
I organized documents and papers for my work. I need to change my Japanese mode to Pakistani mode by force before Monday, the first day of action.
From Bangkok, I enjoyed the conversation with a young man from Panjab who sat next to me in the plane. He had a hip look with his both eyebrows pierced. He is a baby brother of 5 sons and was on the way back home after 3 months of stay in Malaysia.
Me: why did you go to Malaysia?
Rizman: I wanted to go to disco! with some girls. There are no discos in Pakistan.
Me: Why did you leave already? Did you get bored?
Rizman: New roommate in my apartment was an Indian and he tried to kill me. Also, I was afraid that he was going to police to tell them that I was an illegal resident.
He told me about his plans of going to gym once he gets back home. He wants to be mucho he said. "why to be macho? Girls like muscles right?" Rizman kept on chewing gum for the whole time. According to him, chewing gum keeps his chin very slim. mmmm I should perhaps start chewing gum too. He is not planning of working because he (his family I suppose) owns big properties in Lahore, so he wants to eat well, sleep well and work out well from now on. He looked really happy when he was talking about his plans so I think it is all good.
When we were writing the entry card, Rizman said he forgot his ID and he cannot write down his ID number. I thought it would be problematic, but he said it is no problem. ' We are in Pakistan, it is ok. everything will be ok in Pakistan' and he smiled. What does this smile mean? I guess I will find it out sometime later in my stay in Pakistan.
As we were landing, Rizman started to be worried about this brow pierce which he was talking very proudly about at the very beginning of our conversation. He said his dad is picking him up from the airport and he thought better to take it off. He asked me to help him unscrewing the tudd. I hesitated especially because I was surrounded by all Pakistani people who probably did not like any kind of sexual movements such as a woman touching or getting close to a man's face. I was already feeling some attentions by the surroundings for being a female traveling alone and talking with a strange Pakistani man who was sitting next me. I indirectly and politely refused to help him. He took it off by himself in a short while.
When I arrived in Isalamabad airport, there were three lines at the passport controle. One for Pakistani, one for foreigners, and the last for Pakistani women and children who were unaccopanied by men. I observed the foreigners' line and found very typical looking journalists and NGOs. I also found a few ladies who covered their hair who I suppose are married to Pakistani men. Fortunately, a person who was standing in front of me was a UN operation coordinater who based in Peshawar. Even more fortunately he was Japanese! I asked about how it is like to live in Pakistan in very few sentences and he told me I should not worry too much. He introduced me to another Japanese man who is based in Islamabad working for JICA. I felt really happy being Japanese.
After the luggage claim, I was welcomed by about 80-100 people standing outside waiting for their family and friends. There were about 30 children lining up so straight in front of the adults waiting. They looked so adoreble. Among all those people, I saw a big sign says ' Ms. Sato'. I greeted the hotel driver and took off to the hotel. Thank God he had a big sign. I have no idea how I would have found him otherwise.
The hotel Lavender is owned by a famouse Japanese lady knowned as 'Obahan' (meaning aunty in Japanese Western dialect). The staff was very kind and the room is spacious and comforting. Thanking the KnK staff who found this hotel and I went to bed. I was dreaming about the next morning to have some chats and information exchange over breakfast with other guests who are supposedly all Japanese(the driver said there are only Japanese guests). The end of day 1